For anyone taking on the Sturt’s Steps trek across western New South Wales, this is a far cry from the state’s image. There are no pristine beaches or trendy towns here. Just rugged mountains and the bush.
The Sturt’s Steps journey is an 1100km loop that ventures north from Broken Hill retracing Charles Sturt’s 1849 expedition touching the desolate Barrier Ranges and edges of the Simpson and Strzelecki Deserts.
What was once a battle of attrition is now a trekker’s paradise. It is a way for explorers to test their motorhome limits across unsealed roads and tough terrain. A test where civilisation is very much left behind.
This journey has transformed thanks to local funding and heritage groups in recent years. So much so that is one of the defining highlights of Corner Country. So how do you tackle Sturts Steps on an off-road adventure?
Sturt’s Steps Itinerary
Start/Finish: Broken Hill
No matter how you approach Sturt’s Steps, it all begins at Broken Hill. Broken Hill is in many ways the perfect gateway for this area. The town of 20,000 is on both the Silver City Highway and the Barrier Highway. This makes the town easily accessible from Sydney, Adelaide and even Melbourne. It is by far the best place to stock up on all essential supplies needed for several days off-roading. Particularly given that the forthcoming terrain is as isolated as you can get.
But don’t look at Broken Hill as just your main base for supplies. The city itself is one of Australia’s premier mining towns – a tradition that carries on to this day. It shows off this heritage in full display and showcases Australia’s mining story to its fullest. It’s also Mad Max territory – where they filmed the trilogy around the town’s outskirts. This makes Broken Hill in itself a place worth exploring no matter your interests.
Broken Hill – Pine Creek
Upon leaving Broken Hill, it’s time to head north on the Silver City Highway – the only sealed road on this journey. Some 40km north of Broken Hill, Sturt’s Steps leaves the highway turning left at Yanco Glen. Signposted as Corona Road, this was the first spot where Sturt headed west searching for water following Campbells Creek.
Not far west from Yanco Glen is Mount Gipps Station – an unsighted yet hugely important marker in Australian history. It was here in 1883 when Charles Rasp stumbled upon what looked like tin ore. Instead, it was the tip of a huge silver, zinc and lead deposit – the largest in the world. It was here that Australia’s modern mining industry was born – one that prospers to this day.
From here, it’s time to head further west settling at Pine Hill station. This cattle station is the westerly settlement in New South Wales and is within touching distance of the South Australia border. Don’t expect access to SA though as the wild dog fence straddling the NSW/SA border makes traversing it impossible.
Campsite: Pine Creek Station
Despite its isolated location, Pine Creek Station makes for the ideal first overnight stop for Sturt’s Steps. The station has two campsites with full camping facilities such as toilets and BBQs. It also has a Flying Doctor outpost to provide basic medical treatment if necessary.
Pine Creek – Milparinka
This leg of the journey is extremely rugged and one is mostly about traversing across the rugged bushland. Traversing this section of Sturt’s Steps is tricky but does come with some handy intermediate campsites if progress is slow. A third of the way along this leg of the posted route is Pimpara Lake Station. This sheep station offers basic camping facilities but also backs onto the dry lake that the station is named. Should issues arise, there is direct access back to the Silver City Highway via Sanpah Road.
Heading further north, you will come across Pincally Station – a cattle and sheep station. There are basic camping facilities and also acts as a decent stop if you are unable to make the full journey to Depot Glen or Milparinka. From here, take Mount Shannon Road which continues the loop further to the small township of Milparinka.
Milparinka-Cameron Corner
Milparinka may not seem it but this township is a vital stop on the Sturt’s Step journey. The town of just 77 has a general store and the Milparinka Hotel is a great overnight stop to refresh. There’s also plenty of information about Sturt’s expedition in the town run fully by residents. After refreshing briefly with civilization, head northwest on Hawker’s Gap Road to discover Mount Poole and Sturt’s Camp.
It was here that this homestead provided the base camp for Sturt to explore further north and west during the expedition. Just north of the homestead also lies Mount Poole – one of the main hills in the area. This is a must and it’s not just for some great panoramic views. It also has the stone cairn known as Sturt’s Cairn – a symbol of the explorer’s presence in the area.
Moving on from Mount Poole, you enter Sturt National Park – an area named after the explorer himself. Sturt National Park is both culturally and ecologically significant. The Park is protected due to a host of varied wildlife including two species of endangered bandicoots and numerous bird species around Lake Pinnaroo. Also within the park is Fort Grey – a small camp that marked the limit of Sturt’s expedition when hitting the fringes of the Simpson Desert. From here. It’s only a short distance to Cameron Corner – the meeting place of the NSW, SA and QLD border. Venture over to the Queensland side where a general store provides supplies and camping facilities.
Campsite: Fort Grey
Whilst Cameron Corner provides all the amenities needed for an overnight stay, Fort Grey offers an alternative. The chance to camp like Sturt himself. Fort Grey is perfectly suitable for hosting campervans and motorhomes and is one of four camping spots within Sturt National Park. It’s near Lake Pinnaroo making for excellent hiking and wildlife sightings. A proper way to spend a night in the bush like Sturt himself.
Cameron Corner – Tibboburra
After exploring Sturt National Park, the trail heads east winding its way through creekbeds and dirt pathways. The journey east eventually brings you to the town of Tibboburra. This small town sits some 335km north of Broken Hill and is the point where unsealed roads loop back with the Silver City Highway.
The town itself is a former mining town but now acts as a waypoint for tourists exploring Sturt National Park. Despite this, the town itself provides all the key ingredients necessary to restock. This includes shops, campsites as well as restaurants to help restock after several days traversing bushland. It is also a short distance from here to Milparinka should you look to head further south.
Tibboburra – Broken Hill
The last leg of Sturt’s Steps is a blast back down the Silver City Highway heading back to Broken Hill. After passing Milparinka, the road snakes its way along the edges of the Barrier Ranges and Grey Ranges with a few small townships scattered along the way. About halfway between Milparinka and Broken Hill is Packsaddle – a traditional Aussie roadhouse.
Situated on its eponymous creek, Packsaddle became a famous stop with both Sturt and Burke & Wills staying here on their famous expeditions. The modern-day incarnation is Packsaddle Roadhouse – a complex that provides food, leisure and accommodation for all travellers recreating these paths.
Halfway between Packsaddle and Broken Hill is Fowler’s Gap – a spot that has gained headlines in recent years. It has proven to be an unheralded wildlife refuge with species such as the Plains mouse found here – the only sighting of the small mammal in New South Wales. It’s a place that is worth looking to discover any potential sightings of unusual creatures. Following this stop, it’s then a short journey back to Broken Hill and ending the Sturt’s Steps adventure.
FAQ
Are all the roads sealed?
No. Many of the roads on Sturt’s Steps are unsealed. The only sealed road outside of Broken Hill is the Silver City Highway. Therefore, take full precaution before setting off and check road conditions online for closures and warnings.
Is the journey marked?
Yes – the Sturt’s Steps journey is fully marked along all routes. Signposts mark the route both on sealed and unsealed highways. This makes following the route much easier and prevents getting lost at key markers in the desert.
What are the main hazards?
Most of the hazards on the trip are natural. This includes unsealed roads crossing dry creek beds so look out for storm warnings. The region is also known to host venomous snakes like the eastern brown snake and mulga. Avoid any contact with snakes and do not approach them in any circumstances.
Conclusion
Overall, following in Sturt’s Steps is a true outback adventure. The long path crosses mountain ranges and vast bushland making for challenging terrain. However, the trek highlights the great challenges explorers faced during the early colonial expeditions. What’s left behind are remnants of mining, farming and quaint towns that signal Australia’s path to a modern nation. It’s this vast mix of stories that makes Sturt’s Steps a truly unique off-road trek to experience.
